Lopé II – Lost in the jungle – Verloren im Urwald

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On our arrival at La Lopé, we had a warm welcome with the chef at the Hotel Mbeyi as well as the manager of both the Lopé Hotel and Hotel Mbeyi. When we told the latter the story of our journey so far, he smiled and shrugged. “That´s Gabon” he said, and we felt sorry for him, because we could see in his face what it meant to make your money with tourists in this country. Then he mentioned that the train was out of service for several days now because of an accident just before Libreville. We looked at each other and agreed that this time, we´ve been two lucky bastards.

Lopé II – Lost Highway

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Wir versuchten noch, von Mayumba aus den Süden des Loango Nationalparks zu besuchen, bekamen aber bei einem Anruf die brüske Antwort, dort sei alles ausgebucht und Camping nicht erlaubt, was bei uns allerdings zu nicht mehr als einem Schulterzucken reichte. Gabun will keine Touristen, das hatten wir inzwischen verstanden.

SETRAG, Clients prioritaires

La Lopé, Gabon/Gabun

Lopé I – The transport issue – Die Sache mit dem Transport

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The next morning, we got picked up past eight. We drove to the National Park office next to a park entrance on the other side of La Lopé where we had to inscribe our data into a big book. On the way, we had picked up our guide, a short and stocky guy who was working for the researchers most of the time. He didn´t seem too convinced of the concept of tourism but at the same time, he was a very friendly one. We already knew the entrance books from the parks in eastern Africa, but in Lopé were only two or three visitors recorded per day. That was something completely different compared to eastern Africa, and Lopé is not the remotest park in the country, it is Gabon’s highlight, by far the most famous and most accessible park. (Apart from that, using the words Gabon, Lopé and accessible in one sentence feels sort of unnatural to me.)

Lopé I – Die Sache mit dem Zug – The train issue

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Wir hatten Glück, denn der Van brachte uns tatsächlich ohne Thrombose, Quetschungen oder sonstige Verletzungen nach Ndjolé, an dessen Marktplatz wir gegen fünf Uhr feststellen mussten, dass unser Ziel auf der Straße an diesem Tag in keinem Fall mehr zu erreichen war. Also fuhren wir zum Bahnhof, der einige Kilometer außerhalb der Stadt liegt. Es hatte zwar keine Fahrkarten mehr von Libreville nach La Lopé gegeben, aber vielleicht war es möglich, für die viel kürzere Strecke zwischen Ndjolé und La Lopé, was nur wenige Stationen waren, eine Mitfahrgelegenheit im Zug zu bekommen. Dessen Ankunft wurde irgendwann nach Mitternacht erwartet.